... Story submitted by David

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Getting the Cane ...

Disclaimer: This story involves true accounts of submissive canings.
It also gives a beginners guide to caning and advice on caning your partner, buying your first cane, caring for your cane, where to spank and which canes will bruise, sting or mark your partners bottom - depending on your requirements.

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"A true & personal memoir ... "

Like all pupils at a Public School one expected sooner or later to be caned, one dreaded the moment only knowing by rumour and ear what it would be like. Public caning was not practiced very often.

I was introduced to the cane in the late 1050's when our Form Master lost it and decided to cane the whole class. I remember as if it was yesterday when it came to my turn to bend over and touch my tows. The surprise that it didn't hurt very much, that was untill about 20 seconds later when I was back at my desk, I was aware of the sudden appearance of an erection in my trousers and a sharp pain throbbing from my bottom up my spine, it was not unpleasant but it did hurt!

Like the others at break I went to the lavatory to look at the damage, I could feel the lump of the single stripe and could just see the classic twin tracks of deep red with white in between, by tea time they would be dark blue as the bruise developed. Later just grinding my buttocks into the desk seat where the bruise was would produce an erection.

The next time was memorable if only for the occasion, It was in gym by our second gym master a Turk who was a brute and strong, the pain was much greater the single stroke having been laid on especially hard through only my shorts and with great accuracy, the "mark" took five weeks to go away.

The next time was rather more serious. Two of us were in trouble and told by the master a Physics Master called Hancock (I'll never forget him) to report to the First Aid Room which doubled as an execution chamber! WE knew we were going to be caned and Hancock's reputation went before him! He arrived carrying the standard senior school can between 3/8" & 1./2" thick straight and made from rattan cane. The other boy (David Brett) went in first and after some talking  a brief silence and then the whistle of the cane and the "thwack as it hit the target" Repeated four times! David came out looking white but walking! Then it was my turn, "bend down" some fumbling as he hitched up my jacket and felt to ensure I hadn't put on any padding like extra pants or gym shorts, he pulled up my shirt tail which I had carefully pulled right down. "Four and don't move!" Then swish crack thump as the first stroke hit home, not too bad, but I spoke too soon at about ten second intervals, and by the time he'd laid on the fourth my bottom was really thumping! The usual erection was by now showing.

He then left the room with me and told us both to report to the matron after school.

I went straight after teas and Matron was expecting me, she was a very neat 20 year old assistant matron.
She made me take off my trousers and lay down on the couch in the room, she rubbed in some cream and told me to turn over. Why? I turned over and there she was naked. She pounced on me and took me into her very quickly and went at it, demanding that I then come on top of her, the ejaculation was a blessed relief, and it's no wonder that I got a taste for being caned!
Which in turn lent me to get taste for being caned as an adult.

... So here are a few facts about it and what to use and how to do it:

This is probably the implement most associated with Corporal Punishment. There is something very emotive about this traditional, English disciplinary tool.
Part of the cane's mysticism is the ritual and theatre associated with its application which is as much about psychological torment and fear as it is the actual beating. Making the condemned wait, sometimes hours or days in anticipation. The flexing of the rod as a scolding takes place. Then, finally, the rite itself: having the reprobate bent over a desk, or a chair, or perhaps touching their toes..

Traditionally administered in half dozen batches ominously referred to as 'six of the best'. Caning is an art that involves more than the technical ability to apply an accurate stroke.. The best types of cane to use are those that come from the climbing palm or rattan family as these have a flexible stem. There are enormous varieties of rattans, with innumerable differing qualities. The most popular varieties for making a punishment cane are Kooboo, Dragon, Palambang and Malacca.

No two canes are ever identical, as they are natural products, grown, not manufactured. There are an endless variety of rattans. Thickness, flexibility, curvature, colouring and surface finish all vary. Often canes are named and graded by their increased length and thickness: Junior Cane 8mm diameter, Senior Cane 10mm and Reformatory Cane 12mm plus. Lengths usually range from 30in to 36in. Most standard canes are made from Kooboo. For more serious punishments try a Dragon cane as the rattan is denser and slightly stiffer than Kooboo. It also has a very smooth surface which helps it fly through the air faster. Another heavier implement is the ferrule originally a Victorian walking cane made from the very thick and heavy rattan Malacca. I have come across so-called 'fibre-glass' canes and 'dressage or show' canes (canes covered with leather), which are not really canes at all, both are very severe implements that I would suggest only advanced players consider using. Probably the fiercest canes are those used for Singapore judicial punishments, made from stripped manner rattan they are approximately 15mm thick and 50 inches long. 

Crook or Straight Handle?
So why do canes have crook handles? I have to say I'm not exactly sure, as I have found lots of different explanations. One being that originally walking canes were used to beat people with so the crook handle is just a remnant of this. I have also read that the crook was used to stop the cane slipping out of the hands during a vigorous thrashing. The crook was also used to hang the cane up so it would be a constant reminder to errant young children. Well the crook handle is certainly associated with the school cane. I don't think the handle makes much of a difference to the cane, many people just have a personal preference. Some straight canes have some kind of added handle, which does make them easier to use.

Short or long & thick or thin Canes come in a huge variety of lengths and thickness. I would suggest that a beginner uses a short, lightweight cane. The longer the cane the more swing, the greater the arc, equaling a more painful stroke. Remember the longer the cane the more difficult it is to control. The weight of the cane changes the
sensation and intensity of the stroke. The thinner the cane the more 'stingy' and biting it feels. While thicker canes are heavier, more 'thumpy' and tend to bruise the skin. With more weight they penetrate more deeply. 

Caning Techniques:
Caning is probably one of the most revered of the disciplinary arts taking some time to perfect. A perfect cane stroke needs a minimum amount of effort, you don't have to throw your whole body into it. In fact the greatest accuracy is achieved with the minimum variation of movement. This is probably one of the reasons as to why the cane is such a favored disciplinary tool. The stature and strength of the disciplinarian is immaterial as it is one's technique that is all-important (the cane is certainly a great equalizer for women). always use full force blows you'll only fluff it if you "pull" the stroke!

There are two different techniques to caning someone. Firstly with a 'wrist only' movement and secondly, with an 'arm and wrist' movement. I would suggest that beginners  (and when caning in an area with limited space/height) should always use the wrist movement. It is also the stroke I prefer to use as it has a greater degree of accuracy. Hold the cane in your hand, tuck your elbow into your body and using only your lower arm, use a fast wrist motion to flick the cane at the target. If you cane without moving your wrist you cannot get any speed into the motion of the stroke or that lovely 'swish' noise, as you are not really using the flexibility of the cane.

The 'arm and wrist' movement involves lifting up and bringing down your arm, putting the force of your shoulder behind the stroke, finishing the stroke with the wrist movement. The arm can move either up or out for this motion. Make sure you practice the movement and measure the stroke lots of times before beginning the punishment because with this technique it is easy to be inaccurate. If you have never caned someone before try holding the cane about a third of the way in, this makes it shorter, less flexible and easier to control. As you gain confidence move your hand out until eventually you are holding it at the end.

After striking the bottom you can either follow through with a stroke that leaves the cane firmly planted on the buttocks or allow the cane to bounce back and lift away from the area. Following through will make the stroke more painful and 'thumpy', this is because you are passing on all the kinetic energy of the stroke into the buttocks. While lifting off does not dump as much energy onto the area.

Where should you aim for?
A proper cane stroke is really best suited for use on the fleshy buttocks. It can be used on other parts of the body but I suggest using a very short lightweight cane, with a building tapping motion. I would suggest that beginners aim to keep the tip of the cane in the middle of the furthest cheek. Once you are more confident keep the tip about two inches in from the outer edge of the bottom. ) Beware of over-shooting the target. Often when caning you can measure the stroke but will then over shoot this mark when putting your power behind the stroke. The highest cut should be just below the cleft of the buttocks and the lowest just along the crease where the bottom meets the legs. 

One of the main mistakes that people make when using a cane is to deliver the strokes all on the same spot. There should be a succession of cane stripes up and down the entire buttocks. I love to see a caned bottom with six evenly placed lines across it each about an inch apart. So try to cane the entire bottom, don't just hope to hit anywhere. Practice high and low shots.
Even experienced players can miss-hit sometimes but remember - if you are not that experienced start with medium or light strokes so that they will not cause too much damage if you do miss.

I think that where you stand in relation to the recipient while administrating the caning is one of the most important factors. Where you stand determines the angle the cane will hit the bottom. If you are too forward or behind the target the angle will be too great and result in one buttock receiving a heavy punishment and the other side none at all. Use the lines you are leaving on the bottom as a guide to how well you are balancing the strokes. The perfect stroke lands flat, that is parallel to the buttocks just before it lands. Thereby transferring the stroke's power equally onto each cheek.  
Before the prevalence of the cane the most popular implement was of course the birch. However the cane fitted in well with the Victorian ideals of modesty as
it could be easily used over the clothes with very little loss of intensity. So the cane is one of the few  implements that can be particularly effective over clothes. Canings over tight skirts, jeans, shorts and thick panties are all popular. If you want to indulge in a heavy caning session but don't want to be marked some practitioners recommend wearing layers of thick knickers or laying a folded wet towel over the buttocks. It will prevent marks, yet still allows much of the intensity of the punishment to come through. These are also useful for a dominant that wants to really thrash away at their partner.

Another way to dish out a punishment of a half dozen strokes is that of the 'Five-Barred Gate', a 'six-of-the-best' with one very important, singular variation - the sixth cane stroke is delivered at a roughly 45 angle slicing diagonally across the previous five strokes. Its purpose is to 'link' the weal's into what appears to be, as you may have guessed, a 'gate.' That last cane stroke is, as is traditional, the hardest, and "opens up" the previously inflicted welts. 

Buying a cane:
Look for a cane that is straight and smooth. It should either be cut so there are no knuckles or they should have been sanded down. It should be flexible - not too stiff and not uncontrollable. Never make the mistake of buying bamboo from a garden center as it is completely unsuitable for beating soft tissue as it is inflexible, it splits and splinters easily and can cut the skin. If you want to buy a truly authentic quality cane I would recommend ordering one from a specialist.  
Canes are made from natural reed with their own moisture content and so will stiffen and become brittle as they dry out over time. This will make them more prone to snap. The best place to keep your canes is in a nice humid bathroom to prevent them drying out. The worst place is near radiators and central heating, as this will considerably shorten their lifespan. If soiled, canes may be washed with soapy water (also alcohol or household bleach if blood is present). You can then wipe them with a wax based furniture polish that will help to preserve both the surface seal and their appearance.

Periodically you can help your canes remain supple by standing them in a shallow bowl containing a wet sponge. To straighten out any kinks you can soak your canes in a bath of cold water overnight - be aware it will also straighten out crook handles so secure them with an elastic band first. (Note: you cannot soak oiled or varnished canes.) It is also possible to stand your canes in a light, non-viscous oil, such as Linseed oil for 24hrs, this will not only help keep your canes flexible but also add weight to them. The canes used at my school used to have lead shot glued into a hole drilled into the ends!

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